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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Complex aromas of baked apple, vanilla, licorice, toast, baking spices and butterscotch. Rich, dry and lively in the mouth; a medium-to-full-bodied wine with compelling ripeness of fruit. Finishes with very good persistence. Not quite as penetrating as a bottle tasted a year ago, but still a terrific Champagne.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Latour has an archetypal nose for the estate with black fruit, gravel and graphite notes, touches of pencil box developing with aeration, determined to put distance between itself and the Mouton-Rothschild alongside. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive with a gentle grip. It is smooth in texture and not a complex Latour, yet…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the imperious 1996. That is unfair because the late Paul Pontallier crafted a great First Growth this year. It has a very impressive, quintessential Margaux bouquet that is undimmed after 23 years: black fruit, graphite, crushed violets and a touch of tobacco. If anything…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Very complex aromas of blackcurrant, wild plum, violets, minerals, tar and smoky oak. Dense and supple, with great sweetness of fruit. Doesn’t have quite the sheer power of the ’96, but the flavors build and build. Substantial tannins are chewier than those of the ’96 but hit the palate later. 1986…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

(from a blend of 11- and 36-year-old vines) Full ruby-red. Restrained but pure aromas of currant, plum, menthol and roasted meat. Supple, rich and seamless; less sweet and accessible today than the Costa Russi but already shows superb generosity of texture. Finishes with sweet, building tannins and excellent length. This may well shut down in…

Cellar Favorite: 2008 Galardi Terra di Lavoro Roccamonfina Rosso (Aug 2021)

I purchased the 2008 Terra di Lavoro upon release for a price that seems amazing for what’s in the bottle today, and then buried it deep in my cellar. In 2018, I opened the first of my six-pack, and I decided that the wine still needed a little more time. Well, that time is now,…