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Generosity and Diversity – Mosel 2018: Graach to Grünhaus (Nov 2020)

This sole Schaefer Domprobst Kabinett of its vintage leads with scents of zesty citrus, piquantly seed-tinged apple, honeysuckle and wet stone. The palate impression is polished and delicate. Bittersweet nuttiness, mouthwatering salinity, zesty citricity and an impressively decisive sense of stony underpinnings linger on an exhilaratingly buoyant and infectiously juicy finish.

Generosity and Diversity – Mosel 2018: Graach to Grünhaus (Nov 2020)

Decadently ripe pear and Persian melon dominate the nose and the lusciously fruited, lush yet alcoholically featherweight palate. Prominent sweetness, along with softness, accentuates the sense of overripeness. The finish is strikingly buoyant and wafting, but dominantly fruity rather than floral, and harbors the merest hint of wet stone.

2014 Barolo: Late Releases (Nov 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Bricat is all class. Perfumed, gracious and impeccably balanced, the 2014 is sublime today. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berry fruit, mint and spice all lift from the glass effortlessly. Mid-weight structure and fine, silky tannins add to an impression of total finesse.

Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 1: From Extremes, Equilibrium (Jan 2018)

Scents of brown-spiced dried pear and apple lead into a glossy, glycerol-rich, sappy and soothing palate. The long finish delivers a burst of fresh fruit as well as a transparency to stony, saline nuances that one might not have anticipated given what went before, but which nicely demonstrate the effects of block-picking in capturing virtues…

Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 2: Longuich to Graach (Jan 2018)

This evinces a cooler, decidedly less tropical personality than a number of other Haag 2016s. Pear, quince and honeydew melon are infused with green herbs on an effusive nose and a silken, subtly creamy yet infectiously juicy palate. Bittersweet inner-mouth perfume adds to the allure of an impeccably balanced Riesling whose sweetness (even at nearly…

Rheinhessen and Nahe 2015: Cool Concentration from a “Warm Vintage” (Nov 2017)

Cooling oregano and zesty fresh lime and lemon inform a penetratingly pungent nose and a firm, concentrated palate in this amalgamation of fruit from Keller’s Grosses Gewächs sites. Juiciness and crunch of cucumber and ripe apple highlight the virtues he rightly associates with his 2015 fruit as well as the virtues of high-active-lime soil. The…