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The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)

Galardi’s 2008 Terra di Lavoro is a legend in the making. It is a fabulously ripe, rich and seductive wine endowed with beautifully articulated dark plums, ash, leather, licorice, all of which meld together in an explosive, utterly thrilling display of class and elegance. Clean, mineral notes frame the eternal finish. Today the 2008 is…

Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There’s good fruit intensity and plenty of character…

Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes…

Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum (Apr 2024)

The 2022 Chardonnay is wonderfully floral and rich with a burst of lemony custard, vanilla bean and peach sorbet. This opens with a glycerol sweetness, giving way to crisp orchard fruits offset by gingery spices. It’s wonderfully fresh from start to finish, leaving confectionary spices and a tinge of ginger that adds a lovely punctuation.

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wild and spunky, presenting a mix of sweet rose and raspberry contrasted by savory herbs, hints of sawdust and white pepper. There are depths of tart red berries, spices and minerals on the palate, drenching the senses in primary concentration, yet zesty acids maintain notable balance. A coating of…

The Rise of Rosso di Montalcino (Oct 2022)

The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio bursts from the glass with a bright and vibrant mix of spiced cherries, exotic red florals and cinnamon sugar. While elegant to the extreme, there’s an energy within that stimulates the palate, as ripe berries and a hint of crushed violet candies wash across the palate. The 2020 maintains…