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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Rauzan-Ségla has a well-defined bouquet that is fresher than many 2003s at 20 years of age, with fragrant scents of blackberry, peony and iris flower. Good vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, taut and linear with a graphite-tinged, slightly tarry finish. Not bad at all, though I am not…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2003 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that I have tasted several times and certainly constitutes one of the better Margaux. The bouquet is a little smudged with boysenberry and raspberry scents, sandalwood and sage, loose-knit with just a slight alcoholic warmth. The palate is low as you would expect, but it retains balance and it…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red with a hint of development at the rim. Mellow aromas of sandalwood, mocha, coffee, smoked meat and nutty oak. Fat, round and sweet, with a silky texture but good rather than outstanding depth of flavor. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and good length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lafite-Rothschild has an attractive perfumed bouquet with touches of camphor infusing the blackberry and bilberry fruit. There is a mahogany bureau hint. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy opening. The sharp acidity slightly jars against the sweet candied black fruit, with blood orange and white pepper toward the mocha-tinged finish. It’s missing…