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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good deep red. Black cherry, mocha, tobacco and smoked meat on the nose. Sweet, chewy and chunky, with dense, slightly jammy flavors of mocha, tobacco and game. Finishes with ripe if somewhat unrefined tannins and good length.

Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Pinot Bianco Riserva Vorberg is youthfully coiled, as an airy blend of wild herbs and dried flowers gives way to young peach and apricot. This is seamlessly silky and serene on the palate, nearly oily in feel, with brisk acidity to balance and depths of ripe orchard fruits and mineral tones that saturate….

Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2014)

Saturated ruby. Wild, intensely aromatic bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, incense, smoky Indian spices and vanilla, with a seductive floral quality emerging with aeration. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering intense blackberry and boysenberry flavors, a touch of anise and building spiciness. Velvety and full but lively too, finishing with excellent power and smooth,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Giscours (rebottled in 2013) is showing modest bricking on the rim. The nose takes time to open and eventually offers brown spices, leather and tobacco. This is fully mature, a little rustic compared to other bottles, yet there remains adequate freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins with fine depth. Perplexingly, the…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red. Slightly roasted red fruits, currant and spice cake on the nose. Fat, full and sweet but could use a bit more shape. Has plenty of extract, though, and builds nicely toward the back. Finishes with dusty tannins and noteworthy sweetness of fruit.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…