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Sassicaia from Magnum at Vinous Icons: Italy

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the great modern-day Sassicaias. Powerful and imposing in its first impression, the 2021 makes it clear from the outset that it’s a long-distance runner. A rush of dark red/purplish fruit, blood orange, dried flowers, graphite, mint and sage all build into an utterly captivating crescendo of aromas, flavors and…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru is more backward on the nose than the La Grande Ruchottes. This is sulking away for the moment, but given the propitious vineyard in question, this signals its long-term trajectory. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity, very intense and focused. Quite Puligny, not…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes has quite a sultry bouquet at the moment, biding its time opening in the glass, mainly black fruit with more red fruit emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, blueberry infusing the wild strawberry fruit with a subtle creamy texture towards its harmonious finish. This is a…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles 1er Cru has quite an intense bouquet with yellow plum, honeysuckle and light jasmine scents gaining intensity with aeration. Fine delineation once again. The palate is very well-balanced with a touch of ginger on the entry, becoming stricter and slightly oily in texture, showing more extract than the preceding les…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru has conspicuous sulfur veiling the nose, which over-shadows the fruit profile and terroir expression. (Decanting from glass to glass does remove some of this sulfur, though not entirely.) It just needs time. The palate is well-balanced with a fresh opening, acceptable weight and depth, lightly spiced with white…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

Bright ruby. Ripe cherry and black currant scents are complemented by suggestions of pipe tobacco, mocha and candied flowers. Plush, round and sweet in style, offering ripe dark fruit flavors and a suggestion of vanilla. Pliant tannins provide shape to the finish, which leaves suggestions of fruitcake and mocha behind. This rich wine could handle…