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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some bricking on the rim, although the core remains quite dark. This has an attractive bouquet with lovely tobacco-infused black fruit and touches of black truffle and morels. There is something very gentle here but also intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity,…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is fabulous. Effusive and explosive to the core, the 2005 possesses tons of energy and pedigree to burn. Crushed flowers, mint, gravel, red/purplish fruit, sage and mocha abound. In 2005 Brane-Cantenac is remarkably deep and vivid. It also comes across as needing a bit more time to soften. Readers will find one…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac, which was picked September 17 to October 10, has a suave, elegant bouquet of blackberry, cedar, gravel and tobacco scents, certainly showing more intensity and energy than any of the last five vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine and surprisingly supple tannins that are finally beginning to soften. I love the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Moderately sweet, medium-bodied and vinous, with ripe acidity and a floral element providing mid-palate lift. Still a bit medicinal and unevolved, but this has the serious structure to develop slowly and well in bottle. Finishes long and firm.

The Best New Releases from Australia, Part Two (Sep 2011)

(most of this vintage’s fruit comes from Tasmania, with the rest grown in the Adelaide Hills): Pale, green-tinged yellow. An exotic bouquet displays nectarine, orange zest, iodine and spices. Smoky mineral and dried fig notes add complexity and depth to fresh orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with serious…

Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2013)

(made from 98% shiraz and 2% cabernet sauvignon, from fruit grown in vineyards in the Barossa Valley, the Magill Estate Vineyard and the Clare Valley; raised in 100% new American oak): Inky purple. Intensely perfumed, expressive aromas of dark berry preserves, bitter chocolate, fruitcake and smoked meat, with a spicy topnote. Sweet, palate-staining blackberry, vanilla…