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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep, bright medium red. Roasted, slightly wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and game complicated by an exotic candied quality. Lush, silky and utterly seamless wine, with compelling concentration and sweetness of fruit. This didn’t quite match the Haut-Bailly I tasted before it for lift but there’s enough energy here, not to mention noble, fully…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barolo Pira is lifted and gracious in feel. In this vintage, the Pira is notably perfumed and restrained. Rose petal, mint, crushed flowers, dried cherry, star anise and cinnamon are some of the many notes that grace this delicate, lilting Barolo from Luca Roagna. The tannins are persistent and fine, lending a slightly…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The bouquet on the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci is deeply rooted in the earth, with notes of underbrush and crushed ashen stone giving way to black currants and savory herbs. It’s far more lifted and delicate in feel than anticipated, presenting a lovely inner sweetness and a pure display of tart woodland berries…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I…