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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a light bouquet of undergrowth and wet pavement, a little subdued at first but finding its voice with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and there is some beautifully integrated oak here. Harmonious and poised with wonderful weight and…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is an impressive wine for the vintage. Though this example was poured blind at the property, I have encountered better bottles, and this shows a little volatility on the nose. The palate has plenty of concentration, more like a 2005 in style with plush blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good grip and assertive…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good dark red. Perfumed, ineffable aromas of currant, cherry skin, floral oils and incense. Then juicy and penetrating on the palate, with excellent concentration and thrust to the soil-inflected flavors of currant, minerals and iron. Very suave, pure wine with the structure to age.

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

A wine of class, pedigree and nuance, the 2015 Haut-Batailley is superb. Beams of supporting tannin give the dark purplish flavors striking energy and cut. Graphite, smoke, violet, mint, dark cherry and plum notes continue to open up in the glass. Haut-Batailley is a Pauillac with distinct Saint-Julien leanings, and that is exactly what comes…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is mid-weight, gracious and absolutey impeccable in its balance. Sweet tobacco, mint, red stone fruits, dried cherries and orange peel are some of the notes that inform the Malconsorts. Pliant and expressive on the palate, with highly expressive floral overtones, the Malconsorts is a gorgeous wine in 2011 and just…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is a step down in intensity from the 2009 and 2010: leafy red fruit, forest floor, the stem addition here jutting out a little more than previous vintages. The palate is soft and mellow on the entry, again, the stem addition dictating the style of the wine rather…