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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

From a vintage with tiny yields that produced just about four barrels of wine, the 2012 Montrachet possesses explosive energy, density and pure power. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 need to be exceedingly patient, as it is embryonic nowhere near ready to drink. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full yellow-gold. Multifaceted, terroir-driven nose and palate combine lemon zest, hay, honey, medicinal herbs and menthol. Thick, rich and deep yet somehow taut, showing terrific sappiness and concentration intensified by a medicinal herb element that reminded me of B&B. Much more about soil character than primary fruit. Finishes with a honeycomb note and yet this…

La Paulée de New York (Mar 2007)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 1995 Grands-Echézeaux followed. It was delicate, soft-textured yet intensely spiced, as well as more generous in its expression than the somewhat compact, dried out 1995 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Aux Brulées that was served alongside it.

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Good deep red, a shade darker than the Echezeaux.. More closed but more perfumed aroma hints at redcurrant. At once sweeter and denser, with more flavor intensity and a stronger impression of acidity. Opened nicely in the glass to show ripe redcurrant flavor. Finishes tannic but quite ripe, and longer than the Echezeaux.