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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Troplong Mondot is stunning, just as it was en primeur. Rich and ample, yet endowed with striking energy as well, the 2017 is the first vintage made by new CEO Aymeric de Gironde and consulting winemaker Thomas Duclos. The 2017 takes hold of all the senses and never lets up. All of the…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

During en primeur, the 2017 Lafite-Rothschild was one of the most impressive wines of the Left Bank. Today, it is equally impressive. An ample, richly constituted wine, the 2017 is an unusually dark, somber Lafite, with a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon that is among the highest ever here. There is a sort of monastic sense…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Lafite-Rothschild was bottled at the end June 2019, two months prior to my visit to the château. It has a lovely bouquet with blackberry, briary, brine and cedar. Generous, especially for the normally more introspective First Growth. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that frame the blackberry and bilberry fruit. The acidity…

Champagne: 2023 New Releases (Nov 2023)

The 2015 La Grande Dame is bright and nicely focused. There’s good energy driving a core of Pinot Noir fruit. Pear, white flowers, mint, white pepper and lime are nicely delineated. The 2015 is not the most complex Grande Dame I have ever tasted, but it offers plenty of immediacy with no vegetal notes or…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Glass-staining ruby. Displays expansive aromas of dark fruit liqueur, incense, violet and spicecake, along with hints of cola and cracked pepper that build with air. Fleshy and seamless on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors that are brightened by a smoky mineral nuance. Supple and appealingly sweet on an…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Grivot is aging this wine in 50% new oak but seasoned the barrels first with a Chardonnay vinification; all of the fruit from the lower section of this site was lost to frost but the terraces were unaffected): Bright red-ruby. Pure but reticent scents of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and spices are accented by a…