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1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Full deep red. Stylish nose of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, cherry and violet, lifted by tangy spices. Silky, thick and sweet, with striking creaminess and depth of flavor considering that the vines are just 15 years old. Lovely spicy complexity. Youthful finish features dusty oak tannins.

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

A wine of restraint and sensuality, the 2014 Harlan Estate is wonderfully transparent in feel. Time in the glass brings out a compelling interplay of beautifully layered fruit and lifted aromatics. The 2014 is one of the most understated yet energetic young vintages of Harlan Estate I can remember tasting. Readers who have not tasted…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Fully saturated inky purple. Black cherry, mocha, violet, coffee and minerals on the nose, along with a strong oakiness. Enters the mouth sweet and candied, with rich, deep flavors of dark berries and cherry, but turns increasingly austere on the back half. Finishes very long and less tannic than the Pavie Decesse and Bellevue-Mondotte (other…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavie has a distinctly earthy bouquet, well-defined with some expressive Cabernet Franc. A little savory, with dried blood developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with heavily-extracted tannins, tightening up on the mid-palate, good structure, grippy with a graphite-tinged, Cabernet-driven finish. This could actually benefit from more bottle age. Tasted blind at…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc; pH 3.77; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 92) Deep purple. Very deep, enticing aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur, dark chocolate and violet, with some oaky torrefaction notes of espresso and mocha; seems a bit more merlot-dominated than usual. The palate boasts outstanding intensity and freshness to the black fruit and smoky…