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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…

The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 2013 d’Issan has an agreeable bouquet that is not nearly as sophisticated as the 2012, but it seems refined with touches of leather and tertiary black fruit. All it lacks is the energy of previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, clearly no sign of any greenness or herbaceous notes. My respectable…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Issan is a fruity, straightforward wine built for near-term drinking. Crushed flowers, sweet red cherries, tobacco and anise linger on a finish marked by elements of dryness.

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Clinet is a vintage that I have never warmed to ever since I first tasted it from barrel. Bottles have since vindicated my tepid reception. It doesn’t quite click into fifth gear on the nose. It’s a bit austere, and I still believe there’s just a touch of Brettanomyces. Perhaps that is subduing…