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New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha): Vivid ruby-red. Suave, spicy red fruit preserve and potpourri scents are complicated by notes of vanilla, licorice and mocha. Sappy, focused and energetic, offering sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors that are given lift by juicy acidity. Impressively pure and penetrating on the finish, which leaves floral pastille and smoky mineral…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has always been a difficult wine to love, and this replicates its previous two showings. Readers should note that this came directly from the property and was assured to be unaffected by the taint that afflicted much of the production at this time. Yet there is still a sense of dumbness on…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some bricking on the rim, although the core remains quite dark. This has an attractive bouquet with lovely tobacco-infused black fruit and touches of black truffle and morels. There is something very gentle here but also intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity,…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru has a more fruit-forward bouquet with vivacious raspberry and wild strawberry commingling with forest floor and subtle tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, well judged acidity, assiduously integrated oak and a lightly spiced, quite persistent finish. Very fine with commendable class. Tasted blind at the…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2009 Sassicaia is unusually big, rich and opulent. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as the 2009 explodes from the glass with a heady mélange of dark berries, plums, menthol, licorice and new leather. This is an especially racy Sassicaia. Readers who enjoy the classicism of Sassicaia are likely to find the 2009 too…