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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1978 Château Margaux saw a remarkable return of fortunes under their new owners, the Mentzelopoulos family. Crisp and vital on the nose, it is a typical old-school claret armed with black fruit, tertiary scents and a light lavender trait. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, a little austere maybe, but that is a…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc has an intense bouquet of red and black fruit but lacks the precision and detail of some of its peers at present. It gradually unfurls to reveal light graphite/pencil box aromas, along with a touch of sous-bois indicative of a healthy percentage of Cabernet Franc. The fresh, vibrant palate is medium-bodied…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Totally seamless in the glass, with no beginning and no end, the 2015 Cheval Blanc is simply extraordinary. It’s hard to describe the 2015, because all of its elements are so perfectly in place. Beautifully delineated aromatics make a strong opening statement. Vibrant and wonderfully nuanced on the palate, the wine exudes energy and vitality…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2012 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is one of the very best wines in the Antinori range. Dark, sumptuous and wonderfully expressive, the 2012 graces the palate with exceptional finesse. Mocha, espresso, plum, black cherries, smoke and menthol blossom on the rich, expansive finish. There is plenty of Bolgheri immediacy, but the growing season,…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…