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Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 La Grande Rue Grand Cru has a very pure, almost pastille-like bouquet with copious red cherry fruit mixed with crushed strawberry and a little cassis. La Grande Rue? [Post script: Bingo!] The palate is very pretty with fine-grain tannin. This is surfeit with freshness and vitality, although it does not quite have the…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru offers smudged red fruit on the nose, rather flat compared to its peers and missing tension. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, but it needs more delineation and tension towards the austere finish. There is a pleasant rondeur. I believe that there are better examples of…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is a counterpart to the domaine’s own Lavaux (under the Denis Mortet label) as part of Arnaud Mortet’s own negoçe vineyards. It matures in 75% new oak and unlike the Denis Mortet Lavaux, this includes 30 to 40% whole bunches. It has a fresh and well defined bouquet…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru matures in 75% new oak and 100% de-stemmed. It has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry and rose petals that unfurls beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannins, extremely detailed, not long in the mouth with surfeit freshness and tension, and a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark red-ruby. Distinctly wild aromas of black raspberry, crushed rock, bitter chocolate, cocoa powder and leather lifted by a spicy element. Extremely unevolved following a very late malo but already wonderfully sweet, concentrated and creamy, conveying almost painful density to its black fruit flavors. Firms up dramatically on the rocky, mineral-driven back end. Almost tough…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and…