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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A wine of total finesse, the 2014 La Gaffelière is gorgeous. Dark and pliant on the palate, with striking nuance, it presents a striking interplay of juicy Merlot fruit and lifted, Cabernet Franc-inflected aromatics. Silky tannins add to the wine’s exceptional feel and precision. The blend is 80 % Merlot and 20 % Cabernet Franc….

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Gaffelière has a nicely composed, if undemanding, bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit, forest floor and pencil box. There’s evidence of some fine Cabernet Franc in the blend. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, grainy textures and a fine backbone with tarry black fruit towards the rather austere finish….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very well-defined bouquet with marine-tinged black fruit, wet limestone and light violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that frame the pure, silky smooth dark cherry fruit that expands wonderfully on the savory-tinged finish. Just a supremely well-made Echézeaux.

Vinous Table: The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn, NY (Jun 2024)

The 2015 Riesling G-Max from Keller is stunning, endowed with enthralling precision and intensity on the nose without overpowering: crisp mineralité, touches of Crustacea, and hints of yellow plum and linden. Over 30 minutes, it feels like a camera lens being turned into focus. The palate is wonderfully balanced with shimmering, mesmerizing vibrancy, conveying a…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2010 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 29 September to 14 October, was matured in 100% new oak for 18 months. This is more backward, sultry compared to the 2009, but there is a payload of black fruit laced with violet and cedar, a very faint ash scent emerging with time. The palate is full-bodied with powerful black…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a seriously fine bouquet with plenty of black fruit, cedar and hints of camphor that blossom from the glass. So much vigour and intensity here, yet it remains beautifully delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain, supple tannins. There is a fine bead of acidity, fresh and focused,…