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Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal Rosé is magnificent. When Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon started to move Roederer towards organically farmed fruit, he started with Cristal Rosé, Roederer’s smallest production cuveé. Because of that, Cristal Rosé is the wine in this range that shows the current Roederer style in its fullest expression. Rich, vivid and crystalline in…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

Last year I wrote that the 2017 Tignanello would drink well early. Unless that happens within the next two years or so, that will not turn out to be the case. Right after bottling, the 2017 was so generous, but since then it has really gone into a shell. That won’t be an issue over…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

Just bottled, the 2016 Ornellaia is a dense, powerful wine. Naturally, the 2016 is just at the beginning of its life, but I am struck by how polished the tannins are for such a young wine. Ornellaia is at its best starting around age ten, but there is little doubt the 2016 is a hugely…

Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

More like a spiced herbal tea than wine, the 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico wafts up with exotic spices, sweet herbs, cedar shavings and dried black cherries. It washes across the palate with silky textures, taking on a more tactile feel as masses of intense wild berry fruits saturate. Notes of mocha and rum-soak black…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is dark, powerful and explosive, with a huge backbone of tannin that gives the wine its vertical feel and soaring intensity. Blackberry, graphite, chocolate, spice, menthol, licorice, cedar and lavender add to the wine's brooding, intense feel. A vibrant, substantial finish rounds things out in style. Readers will…

Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s (Oct 2018)

Gaja’s 2015 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and resonant, the 2015 exudes class from the very first taste. Today, the aromatics are not especially open or expressive, but it is the wine’s depth and overall sense of harmony that really carry the day. Hints of orange peel, spice and rosewater give the 2015 an exotic…