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New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide (Apr 2023)

The 2022 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay offers tension, power and an unrelenting sense of moving forward as if your palate has been put on a travelator. This is its 30th anniversary vintage. Currently it’s closed and young with little aromatic generosity. There’s nevertheless purity and a real sense of density. The richness is there but it’s…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 La Tour de By has come together well. Dark berry fruit, gravel, spice and menthol lend notable complexity throughout. La Tour de By is a bit rustic in feel, but pleasantly so. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so. There is certainly plenty to like.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 La Tour de By has retained the impressive bouquet that I remarked upon from barrel, featuring lively blackberry laced with cedar scents, though more floral than I recall. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and less attenuated than a couple of samples from barrel, delivering gentle grip and plenty of black pepper…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Moulin-à-Vent La Roche, grown on pink sand and pink granite soils, has a harmonious nose of blackberry and light earthy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with layers of ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with mint. Quite exotic toward the finish.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2011)

(just 10% new oak used; the winery cherry-picked the fruit for this bottling and sold off the rest in bulk): Bright yellow. Lively aromas of apple, citrus fruit, mint and licorice. Juicy and vibrant, with almost painful mid-palate cut. Still youthfully tight, but this no-malo chardonnay displays good underlying density. The persistent finish shows good…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(90% tempranillo and 10% graciano): Bright red. Heady aromas of dried red berries, cherry, smoked meat, vanilla and potpourri, with a spicy element gaining strength with air. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering sappy red fruit and floral pastille flavors and an undertone of sweet vanilla. The spiciness comes back on the finish, which features…