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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(from vines harvested between September 6 and 12): Pale silver-straw color. Enticing, pure aromas of lemon, white plum, wild herbs and menthol, lifted by a hawthorn topnote. Pliant, silky and fat but also fresh and precise, with complex, concentrated flavors of lemon, grapefruit pith, spices and powdered stone. Lovely classic vintage with texture, balance and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose features boysenberry, currant, cedar, graphite and mocha. Suave, gentle and sweet, already displaying ineffable inner-mouth perfume. The 17% merlot component injects a silky component, and the oak element adds a complementary sweetness. Complex, lush, horizontal finish saturates the mouth with flavor. It was not clear to me in April that the…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

A Shard of Greek Sunshine (Jun 2021)

The 2017 Cuvée Monsignori comes from the estate’s oldest vines. I find its aromatics lacking a bit of complexity and personality compared to its peers. The palate is lively and citrus-driven on the entry, but then in the second half it just falls a little flat. I appreciate the slight nuttiness on the aftertaste but…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright straw-gold. Spectacular, intense, exotic botrytized nose is redolent of honeyed yellow peach, apricot and saffron. Then very sweet in the mouth, with concentrated flavors of dried peach, ginger and honey lifted by bright acidity. The finish is long and polished, featuring persistent peach, honey and white pepper nuances.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Rieussec is slightly more backwards on the nose. It is very focused with almond, saffron, orange pith and dried honey aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious entry. Impressive depth with lovely vanillary new oak, it is long and pure towards the finish. A Sauternes with pedigree….