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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1962 Château Margaux is a vintage I’ve only met once. It shows considerable signs of age and has a light and slightly enervated nose with leather and cedar usurping the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied but does not hold a touch of fellow First Growths and attenuated towards a rather mushroomy finish. Alas, this…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Red-ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of redcurrant, minerals, humus and licorice, along with an intriguing vegetal/spicy aspect. Large-scaled, chewy and sweet, but not at all thick or overly sweet; a muscular, powerful wine with a multilayered texture and strong soil character. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins. Very youthfully unevolved. Also tasted: Chambolle-Musigny.

Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico (Jan 2024)

It was the first time that I had tasted the 1969 Unico, a blend of 85% Tinto Fino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. There is a sense of delicacy on the nose that marks it out from the 1970. Slightly faded red fruit mixes with licorice and star anise. The 1969 coheres…

Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 1998)

Deep red-ruby. Sappy, minerally, three-dimensional aromas of redcurrant, iron, and iris, plus an intriguing vegetal nuance. Thick flavors of smoke, minerals and iron filings. Initially showed slightly green acidity but the fruit exploded with aeration and the wine appeared to grow riper and riper. Really stuffed with chocolatey-ripe fruit of steel. Very long. This was…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Mouton-Rothschild is one of those elusive wines that until now I have never tasted. Deep in colour with remarkably little ageing on the rim, it has a stunning bouquet with blackberry, briary and wild heather aromas. Graphite and leather emerge with time, after five minutes matching the ethereal quality of the Palmer. The…