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Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Reseve de la Comtesse is round, sensual and inviting, with sweet floral notes that give the wine much of its up-front appeal. Silky, polished tannins wrap around a core of black cherry jam, plum, smoke and savory herbs. The 2012 could use a bit more mid-palate depth, but it is an attractive wine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Réserve de la Comtesse has a well-defined pencil box-scented bouquet, tightly-wound black fruit with just a light floral tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, a little dry compared to the previous wine [2012 d’Armailhac]. Bullish and assertive with strong tobacco notes on the finish. Where will this go? Tasted blind at…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby-red. Sweet, sexy spice nuances complicate aromas of rich dark plum, cassis and minerals, with a violet topnote providing lift. Dense and suave in the mouth, showing noteworthy sweetness to the unctuous, almost syrupy black fruit and Oriental spice flavors. The finish is long and smooth, with harmonious, lively acidity nicely extending the fruit…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Malartic-Lagravière has quite a high-toned floral bouquet with cassis and violets, more blue fruit than other Pessac wines. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fresh and lively with a sense of energy towards the finish and quite a persistent spicy aftertaste. Fine. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.