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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Ampélia is a plump, juicy Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend. I would prefer to drink it sooner rather than later, while the red cherry and pomegranate flavors remain vibrant. My sense is that with a bit less oak, Ampélia could be a meaningfully better and more interesting wine.

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 1990 Figeac has been variable over the years, perhaps some bottles showing some brettanomyces? My last bottle was definitely one of the best. Deep in colour, it has a very expressive Cabernet component. Black truffle, Earl grey and cigar humidor scents gain momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, a little leathery on…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red. Initially cool aromas of cherry, blackberry, minerals, iron and menthol; an initial musty note dissipated with aeration. Sweet, supple and layered, with a deeply spicy cabernet component. Lovely ripe acids give clarity to the very rich flavors. Finishes with superb firmness and persistence. An excellent vintage for Figeac. Drink between 2005 and 2020.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1990 Figeac, poured at the château with the Manoncourt family, is similar to several recent bottles. This example retains those aromas of Earl Grey and truffle, perhaps not quite as vigorous as the previous example, yet it grows in the glass. The palate is well balanced, the bedrock of Cabernet imparting quite a Left…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pontet Canet, which predates Alfred Tesseron taking over the management of the estate, is clear in colour with moderate bricking on the rim. The nose is lacking some vigour, rustic and feral, light earthy and slightly under-ripe. The palate is medium-bodied with stalky black fruit, rather angular and this feels hollow towards the…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and earth, with a slight roasted aspect. Sweet, fat and warm with alcohol; loaded with fruit but could use a bit more definition. Finishes with some free-floating acidity.