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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Laroque has impressive transparency and focus on the nose, which is well-delineated and mineral-driven, the oak seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and fine grip, and lightly spiced with a touch of black pepper toward the finish. A superb Laroque from winemaker David Siure.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Les Cruzelles, Denis Durantou’s Lalande de Pomerol, is once again impressive in 2015. There is notable volume and unctuousness to the super-ripe red cherry, espresso and mocha flavors. The 2015 needs another year or two to come together, but it is super-impressive. Les Cruzelles is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from gravelly soils. The…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Les Cruzelles is tasted from two bottles. The one at the blind tasting just felt a little out of sorts. The second bottle opened at home allowing aeration replicates its showing just after bottling: dark cherries and crushed strawberry, a succulent palate with a hint of black olive on the finish. That’s more…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with rose petals and cedar infusing the red berry fruit, nicely detailed with blacker fruit uncovered by aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, sweet and rounded, very plush in style with a caressing, femme fatale of a finish. I have actually encountered…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the stars of the vintage, the 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has turned out even better than I expected. Bright floral notes give striking aromatic lift to the rich, sumptuous fruit. A marvelously complete wine, the 2015 is racy and silky on the palate, yet also has tremendous freshness. Bright red cherry, blood orange,…

Rheingau & Mittelrhein Riesling: Rising to 2017’s Challenges (Aug 2019)

Apple and orange on the nose anticipate this bottling’s subtly citrus pip- and kumquat-tinged juiciness. “I associate orange and kumquat with those parts of Kiedrich [Einzellage: Sandgrub] that are on the Eltville side and have quite heavy clay,” observes Fricke. There is a polish to the texture here that is relatively rare for the vintage,…