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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru opens with intensely lifted, expressive aromatics. Deep and richly textured on the palate, the 2013 follows through with superb complexity and personality. Hints of tobacco, lavender and cedar open up in the glass, adding to the wine’s pedigree. Beams of minerality and salinity support the finely sculpted…

Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

Pale, bright yellow. Lemon, lime, apple and peach fruit aromas are a bit cool and minty, but the nose also displays a hint of exotic honeyed high tones. Good texture and breadth but adamantly dry, showing good depth and salty extract more than fresh fruit. Fatter than the Seurredières but with a bit less definition…

A Splendid 2015 Vintage in South Africa—Time To Discover Swartland’s Wines (May 2017)

(from a single vineyard on soil rich in sandstone): Bright dark red. Scented aromas of raspberry, lavender, tree bark, pepper and spices; I would have guessed that this contained some Mourvèdre. At once brambly and a bit high-toned in the mouth, offering a very suave grain and lovely inner-mouth floral/peppery lift to its raspberry and…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, super-ripe wine packed with dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and French oak. Rising notes of violets and licorice add a touch of freshness on the close. This is an opulent, soft-textured style of Brunello that offers plenty of richness and density, even if the flavor profile is not…

New Releases from Washington State (Dec 2014)

(13.9% alcohol, from fruit picked on October 21 and 22 at a crop level of roughly a ton an acre, according to Christophe Baron): Bright medium red. Wildly complex scents of red berries, smoked meat, iron, orange peel, flowers, pepper and olive tapenade. Fat, silky and pure, and not at all overly sweet, with distinctly…

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

A vivid, super-expressive wine, the 1999 Sperss is in a beautiful place right now. The flavors are remarkably nuanced in the glass. Precise but also broad and structured, the Sperss pulses with dark fleshed fruit and plenty of tar, licorice, incense and smoke overtones. What a gorgeous wine this is.