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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Saturated ruby-purple. Delicate aromas of blueberry and cedar are complicated by hints of graphite and tobacco. Delicate on the palate as well, with pretty black currant and cedar flavors. This wonderfully balanced midweight offers sneaky concentration and great precision to its classic, cabernet-dominated flavors, not to mention a long,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(4.6 g/l total acidity; 12.7% alcohol): Dark red with a hint of garnet. A floral element lifts the very ripe aromas of kirsch and spicecake. Smooth, juicy, balanced and clean, with flavors of raspberry jam, graphite and tar exhibiting very good sweetness. Lively, balanced acidity confers precision and cut to this easygoing midweight. Finishes linear…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red with an amber rim. Subdued aromas of plum, redcurrant, truffle and milk chocolate, plus a faint medicinal aspect. Solid and chunky, but with slightly sour acids limiting its appeal. I found the same slight tartness on the finish, which showed good but not outstanding length. This wine was the writers’ and collectors’ favorite…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

I tasted the 1982 Lynch-Bages twice within a month, both at a private dinner in London and at the château, from bottle and double-magnum on separate occasions. Both vindicate an exceptionally fine 1982, perhaps a bit overlooked in a vintage full of stars. Curiously, the bottle in Bordeaux does not fully deliver the mesmerizing freshness…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

A heady, exotic wine, the 2003 Mouton Rothschild takes hold of all the senses. The ripeness and exuberance of the year comes through in spades as this dramatic, opulent wine shows off its radiant personality. The 2003 can be enjoyed now, but it could also use another few years for the tannins to soften. Still,…