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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cos d’Estournel is initially backward on the nose, yet it eventually unfurls to reveal pixelated black fruit, crushed stone, cedar and pine cones, wonderful precision and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins that frame the multi-layered black fruit laced with cedar and black pepper. Great body, superb length and outstanding precision…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Saturated medium ruby. Inky cassis, black raspberry, graphite and pungent minerality on the very ripe nose. Dense, rich and silky, with a brooding inky minerality and an almost liqueur-like dark fruit sweetness leavened by a savory peppery element. This very ripe, deep and concentrated wine boasts wonderful lushness without any undue weight thanks to its…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Saturated medium ruby. Inky cassis, black raspberry, graphite and pungent minerality on the very ripe nose. Dense, rich and silky, with a brooding inky minerality and an almost liqueur-like dark fruit sweetness leavened by a savory peppery element. This very ripe, deep and concentrated wine boasts wonderful lushness without any undue weight thanks to its…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby color. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and smoke. Dense and sweet but a tad rustic, with flavors of roasted dark fruits, chocolate and menthol. Offers a smooth texture, ripe acidity and sneaky length, but could use more precision of flavor and thrust.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, picked at 38hl/ha, has a lovely nose with scents of fireside hearth, black truffle and black pepper, plus plenty of open-knit black fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied and plush with supple tannins. Menthol notes render this a medicinal Pauillac, and in a sense, this trait occludes some of the terroir expression….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It’s tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A…