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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1984 Lafite-Rothschild comes from an off vintage that occasionally springs a surprise… but not this time. It feels fatigued and musty on the nose, presenting pungent tomato vine aromas and a touch of licorice. The palate is better, with dry tannins and vestiges of black fruit and pencil lead, yet it fades dramatically on…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1976 Lafite-Rothschild has for many years been the surprise of an otherwise tricky vintage. This bottle replicated the one I opened back in November 2006. Mature in colour with a wide brick time, the bouquet is open-knit with Montecristos, graphite and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced, perhaps having lost some…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2000 Château d’Issan, which Emmanuel Cruse describes as the last of the “old style” of d’Issan, has an open bouquet with red plum, strawberry and touches of soy coming through with time. Touches of cooked meat also join the chorus line. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, but quite sharp with pointed…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Hosanna is a virile wine, just as it was en primeur, but it also comes across as a bit light in texture relative to the norm. Today, the Franc aromatics are quite expressive. Dried herbs, chocolate, lavender, mint and licorice lead into sweet purplish berry fruit in this unusually restrained Hosanna.

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Hosanna was one of my favourite crus from Ets J-P Moueix from barrel. Now in bottle, it remains a delightful Pomerol. It has a generous and beautifully defined bouquet with ample red cherry, crushed strawberry and light black truffle aromas that are actually reminiscent of Bélair-Monange. The palate is medium-bodied but denser, thicker…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Good full red. Spicy, oak-influenced aromas of luscious ripe plum, mocha and coffee. Juicy and sweet in the mouth, with harmonious acidity framing the chewy red fruit and dried violet flavors. Finishes with serious, slightly dusty tannins and excellent length. Impressively fruity, but I worry about this wine’s tannic bite. Hopefully, the tannins with smooth…