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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Currant, cedar, smoke, game and animal fur on the nose, along with an herbaceous coolness. On the lean side but not hard. Offers a touch of sweetness and comes across as softer than the young 2001, with lower acidity. Tannins are somewhat dry.

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2000 Masseto is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. Plum, blackberry jam, chocolate, licorice and spice infuse the 2000 with striking layers of nuance to play off its exotic, unctuous feel. Stylistically, the 2000 is very much on the extroverted side of things, although it does not…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

Saturated purple-black ruby. Complex, intense nose of dark fruits, pepper and sage. There is uncommon richness on the palate expressive of stewed prunes, bitter-sweet chocolate and candied fruit. Somewhat unevolved today, with palate-gripping tannins and a notable acid presence, it finishes very long, with a strong dose of minerality. (I should add that a barrel…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(these 35-year-old vines on SO4 rootstock are getting old, notes Pillot): Bright yellow. Aromas of yellow peach, white pepper and minerals. In a silky, elegant style, showing more pungent minerality than primary fruit. This very pure wine conveys a Puligny-like vivacity. Excellent potential here.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep red. Rather evolved aromas of roasted coffee and game, plus a distinct barnyard component. Supple on entry, but then rather pinched in the middle palate, and lacking depth and structure. Seems too advanced for such a young wine.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Angelus has always been an impressive Saint-Émilion and at 20-years of age that has not changed in recent years. Showing the first signs of ageing on the rim, it has a glorious bouquet that is midway between primary and secondary aromas: cranberry, crushed strawberry and warm leather on an antique armchair; embers and…