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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pontet-Canet is noticeably deep in colour compared to its peers. This is unusually ripe and sweet on the nose, more red than black fruit, maybe a little jammy and confit-like. I would never guess this was a 2010 Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, plenty of graphite tinged red…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Superripe, soil-driven aromas of currant, plum, cherry pie, mocha and minerals; almost liqueur-like in its ripeness, in a 1947 way. Then huge, sweet and plush, with great volume and depth to its flavors of cassis, flowers, minerals, game and olive. Finishes with big, ripe, horizontal tannins and great mounting length. This remarkably thick…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque purple. Dark berry compote and smoky Indian spices on the intensely perfumed nose, which is complicated by notes of incense and licorice pastille. Deep, sappy and broad on the palate, offering sweet flavors of black and blue fruit liqueur and spicecake. Gains energy as well as depth with aeration, finishing with powerful notes of…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1996 Lynch-Bages is showing some bricking on the rim. It seems fully mature on the nose with blurred red fruit, autumn leaves and undergrowth. A light ferrous scent emerges with time, later a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and austere, and fine acidity, but I feel…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2006 La Conseillante has a surprisingly rich and opulent bouquet that might lack complexity but goes for sheer hedonism. Mulberry, hints of fresh fig and prune, this is a La Conseillante that has avowed not to be outshone by the previous two vintages, though you can argue that it accomplishes that in rather obvious…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Sexy nose combines dark berries, violet, cedar, mocha, truffle and smoky oak. Plush, succulent and sweet, but with lovely delineation to the pliant black cherry and raspberry flavors. At once opulent and vibrant, finishing with a fine dusting of tannins and compelling sweetness. This has an almost Burgundian texture reminiscent of some of…