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Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)

The 2000 Sociando-Mallet has long been a controversial wine, and a couple of recent encounters explain why it was omitted from the vertical at the château. It is simply underripe and vegetal on the nose, a simple case of picking too early. That vegetal element translates across onto the palate and mars what ought to…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Rich, perfumed aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, minerals and cocoa powder. Big, dense, lush and deep, but with lovely sappy vinosity; this expands impressively to fill the mouth. Finishes very long, with suave, broad tannins and a note of black olive. A gloriously successful vintage for Sociando-Mallet, offering a full range of cabernet…

Setting Sail – Malartic-Lagravière 1916 – 2013 (Apr 2019)

The 1998 Malartic-Lagravière comprises a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. I have fond memories of this vintage from 2011, although this bottle did not deliver quite the same delineation on the nose, despite there being plenty of attractive boysenberry, clove, black olive and warm brick scents coming through with…

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1998 La Dominique replicates the fine performance it showed from magnum two weeks earlier. The bouquet offers blackberry, raspberry coulis, sage and truffle on the nose, a touch of mint developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, still fresh and cohesive with black fruit, tobacco, a touch of dark chocolate…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Good red-ruby. Ripe aromas of raspberry, grilled meat and mint. Then minty and quite tight in the mouth. I recall a far lusher texture a year ago; but then my sample seemed a bit dried by the oak. Finishes with substantial, somewhat dry tannins.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Grand Puy-Lacoste is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. It’s showing some signs of bricking on the rim. The bouquet does not quite have the intensity of the previous vintage, but it unfolds nicely to reveal a mélange of red and black fruit, tertiary aromas, gravel and cedar. The…