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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2001 Masseto is one of the all-time great wines here. Vertical and soaring in its intensity, the 2001 occupies all dimensions, especially texturally, where it is so rich, so heady and so compelling. Next to other wines, or other vintages, the 2001 just has more of everything. I imagine well-stored bottles will drink well…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Deep, highly complex aromas of citrus skin, nutmeg, porcini mushroom, toasted almond and clove. Rich, dry and impressively deep; superconcentrated and oily. A chewy, spicy Champagne that seemed to grow fresher as it opened in the glass. Really explosive on the aftertaste, finishing with a clinging quality and powerful spicy, nutty flavors. A major mouthful…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru is one of my favorite wine in this range, and I say that notwithstanding the fact that Richebourg is rarely a wine I truly adore, at DRC or anywhere else. Dark and somber, the 2020 is packed with blue/black fruits, mocha, lavender and graphite. The typically burly Richebourg tannins are…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 23 and 24 August, the first fruit to be picked. Yields are 31.7hL/ha. It has a very perfumed bouquet, with more intensity than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but I wonder whether it matches it for complexity? There is a lovely background ember scent with Earl Grey loitering in the…