Archives: Product Reviews

Woocommerce product reviews

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

It is telling to compare warm and cool years at the turn of the 2010s, when these wines increasingly reflect both vintage character and a firmly established house style. The 2010 Castillo Ygay (Tempranillo with a dash of Mazuelo) comes from a cool year and shows as such: initially closed and reductive, clearly mid-evolution. With…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 La Croix de Gay is floral and nicely lifted with a core of red berry fruit, blood orange, spice, cinnamon and mint that adds nuance. La Croix de Gay is not a big wine, but it offers terrific persistence and plenty of vibrancy, all in a super-appealing, mid-weight style. Drink it over the…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1971 Palmer remains one of the best wines of the vintage. There’s plenty of degraded red fruit on the nose, with freshly tilled loam, light allspice and cedar notes, and wilted rose petals emerging from time. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perhaps now just a little more mature and drier…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru exceeds my predictions from barrel. It has an exquisite bouquet with black plum and raspberry fruit, hints of iris flower and violet neatly entwined with new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fluid tannins. Just a pinch of white pepper marries beautifully with the black fruit. Silky in texture, cohesive…

Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows a touch of VA on the nose at first, though aeration benefits the aromatics, gaining delineation as hints of caramel and star anise infuse opulent black, plummy fruit. The palate is very well balanced, with silky tannins and a sweet core of candied, more red-toned fruit than the…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Apple jelly, pear preserves and caramel studded with white raisin and candied citrus peels make for an aromatic display of head-turning intensity and a creamy, glycerol-rich palate of similarly remarkable concentration and allure. A vein of fresh apple and grapefruit is tapped to introduce unexpected primary juiciness into the layers of confitured, lightly torrefied and…