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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, potpourri, exotic spices and incense, all sharpened by a vibrant mineral topnote. Stains the palate with concentrated, sharply focused blackberry, bitter cherry, violet pastille and fruitcake flavors that deftly blend power and delicacy. Shows superb clarity and resonating florality on a strikingly long,…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

Solar energy defines the 2005 Castillo Ygay (89% Tempranillo, 11% Mazuelo). The aromatics combine clean, precise oak—cedar and sandalwood—with an expansive bouquet of menthol accents and a savory herbal thread. There is fruit presence beneath the frame. On the palate, the tannins remain active, supported by wood that lengthens the wine and brings a lightly…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is soft, understated and classy, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next 15-20 years. The purity of the red-fleshed fruit is striking, as is the wine’s freshness and overall silkiness. All of the elements are so well balaned. The 2017 naturally doesn’t have…

Generosity and Diversity – Mosel 2018: Graach to Grünhaus (Nov 2020)

Musky, decadent lily and peony perfume as well as a hint of mint mingle with scents of very ripe pear and Persian melon. The palate is creamy and delicate, leading to a caressingly sustained finish so full of flowers that you practically have the impression of inhaling it. Like some of Thanisch’s other best 2018s,…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Alpilles Rouge is flat-out delicious. Ripe, plummy and forward, the 2017 offers tremendous immediacy. If I didn’t know how well Trévallon ages, I would be tempted to set an earlier drinking window, but the best is clearly yet to come. Next to other vintages that display a good bit of ripeness, the 2017…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome (Jun 2023)

Made with the usual blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, Cinsaut and other permitted varieties, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape checks in at 15.5% alcohol. It bursts with pungent aromas of red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, black plum, thyme, black pepper and is distinctively spicy. Full-bodied and expressive, wrapped in an intricate web of velvety…