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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Angludet has a mature but fresh bouquet with effervescent red berry fruit, marmalade and light cedar-y scents. The palate is medium-bodied and lactic on the entry. It’s missing a bit of freshness, with touches of leather and cooked meats towards the finish. I would drink this sooner rather than later. Tasted non-blind at…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

(still in barrel, as Conterno felt it needed longer to resolve its tannins) Very sexy, gamey aromas of redcurrant and truffley underbrush. Like an elixir of black fruits, smoky minerals and menthol on the nose, with penetrating acidity providing almost painful cut. Also the most tannic wine in the cellar today, and incredibly primary considering…

Giacomo Conterno: Seven Decades of Barolo Riserva Monfortino

The 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is once again exceptional. There’s not much else to say. Rose petal, exotic spice, mocha, incense, graphite and dried herbs show tons of explosive energy. Potent and structured, with imposing tannins, the 2002 is every bit as captivating as it has always been. Giovanni and Roberto Conterno made the most…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. More expressive on the nose today than the Amoureuses, offering ineffable scents of black raspberry, lavender and flinty, smoky minerality. By far the plushest and deepest of these 2014s but still with outstanding definition and verve. This wonderfully fine-grained, classically dry Musigny boasts bulletproof fruit and finishes with impressive medicinal reserve. Beginning…

Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016 (Feb 2025)

A nose more floral than fruity, leading Paul Wasserman to suggest it seemed to be whole cluster. (Mugnier destems every vintage.) Very elegant and subtle, this wine opens up nicely in the glass. A mineral component shows up and the fruit is more red than black. It’s a pretty light ruby color, with medium body….