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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Floral aromas of apple, pear blossom, mint and marzipan. Big, lush and rich in the mouth, with perfumed notes of pear blossom and white rose. Displays the tactile quality and creamy middle shown by the better wines from this very rich vintage. Fat and strong in extract. Finishes firm and rather powerful, with an edge…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2015 Cepparello is pliant and racy, with lovely floral top notes to match its gracious personality. There is good depth to the dark red/purplish fruit, while silky tannins give the wine plenty of immediacy. Time in the glass brings out attractive rose petal and lavender notes to round things out. The 2015 is not…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Luminous red. High-pitched aromas of sour red cherry, raspberry, rose, stainless steel, white pepper and minerals. Dense and silky in texture but displays great juiciness, clarity and floral lift; the lively but harmonious acidity really lifts and frames the bright red and mineral flavors. Totally saturates the palate and yet comes off as virtually weightless. This…

Sonoma’s Stellar 2016s (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota Vineyard is laced with a host of mineral and soil-driven elements that add considerable nuance to the dark, plush fruit. Smoke, graphite, gravel, incense, blackberry jam and menthol give the 2015 its layered, beautifully expressive personality. I would prefer to give the 2015 a few years in bottle to…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(the 2017 premier crus are aging in about 20% new oak): Aromas of peach, vanilla and spicy oak are lifted by stony energy. Precise and clean, showing lovely density without any impression of weight. A strong peach flavor is accented by a touch of minerality on the subtly long back end.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(from Luchets and en la Barre): Pale, bright yellow. Stone fruits and a honeyed nuance on the inviting nose. Concentrated, ripe and dry, conveying a musky complexity to the flavors of peach, pear and minerals. Finishes with excellent energy and a positive phenolic edge. (Burgundy lovers who routinely snap up the Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc when…