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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.54; IPT 66; 12.5% alcohol; 90% new oak; an 80% selection): Very deep, saturated ruby with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Ripe red and black fruits, mint, vanilla, minerals and delicate black pepper on the captivating nose. Very rich,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the ’86 Mouton…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Moderately saturated medium red. Somewhat riper aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, smoke, tar, tobacco and pepper, plus a hint of green coffee beans. More intensely flavored and vinous than the ’97; in a rather fruity style but a wine of modest sweetness. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and more length than the ’97, but still…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Very reticent aromas of plum, black cherry, leather, dark chocolate and flowers; faint suggestion of surmaturite. Fat with sweet fruit; lush and voluminous for the vintage. Finishes with big but very even tannins that spread out on the palate.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1996 La Mission Haut-Brion is an improvement on the previous vintage, though it remains a couple of steps behind the high point of the decade, which came two years later. This is quintessential 1996 Pessac, featuring scents of warm gravel and scorched earth on a nose that might be classic to some, but a…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

This bottle of 1990 Lafite-Rothschild replicates the one poured at the château several months earlier. The bouquet offers black fruit, a little dustiness, leather and light marine notes, but again, it never slips into fifth gear. It just lacks vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannin, modest fruit concentration and a monochromatic finish…