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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(in barrel, with very little SO2 added to this point): White peach, minerals and a medicinal whiff of menthol on the nose. A far more austere wine than the 2015 version, dominated in the mouth by crushed-rock minerality and menthol. Showing little in the way of flattering fruit in the early going. This is remarkably…

2016 Northern Rhône Whites: Excellent but Often Scarce (May 2018)

Bright straw-gold. Aromas of poached pear and yellow peach are complicated by orange zest, honey and floral nuances. Sappy and broad in the mouth, offering ripe, mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors, along with a suggestion of orange zest that adds bite on the back half. Clings with excellent tenacity on a long, chewy finish…

Alsace & Luxembourg: 2017s and Late-Released 2016s (Jan 2019)

Golden-tinged yellow. Almond paste, beurre blanc, lemon curd, sweet spices, coconut and toast, complicated by a hint of petrol. Bright and acid, offering lively flavors similar to the aromas. A hint of noble rot is typical of the vintage, as it was in 1998. This is very complex, especially on the nose, and boasts a…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Rich, dense and explosive, with tremendous power the 2017 is positively stellar from the very first taste. Macerated dark cherries, sage, spice, star anise, orange zest, mint and new leather give the 2017 an exotic, racy feel that is hard…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…