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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)

Even at 14 years of age, the 2001 remains virile and imposing, which is quite rare as Romanée-Conti is so often an elusive, more sensual wine. The 2001, on the other hand, is a wine of transparency and energy, two of the signatures of the 2001s here, yet the aromas and flavors remain a bit…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

($1; 375) Medium-deep red. Utterly distinctive nose combines plum, redcurrant, beefsteak tomato, underbrush and grilled vegetables. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, without any rough edges. And yet this thick wine possesses terrific verve, purity and power. Expands inexorably in the middle palate and offers extraordinary building length on the aftertaste. The complex earthy/veggie element turns to…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Beychevelle repeats its performance from a blind tasting in London earlier in 2018. It has an old-school bouquet of dusky black fruit, morels and that light seawater note. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp tannin and rustic in style, featuring leathery red fruit and iron ore, though as I noted before, it…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1985 Palmer is another vintage that I have not met for a little while. This is clearly a step up from the 1982 on the nose, even if not a match for the 1983. This blossoms in the glass with brambly red fruit, thyme, rose petals and touches of Earl Grey tea. The palate…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…