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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Angélus is striking. Cabernet Franc aromatics make a strong first impression. Vibrant and delineated, the 2018 is incredibly refined in every way. The move towards a bit less extraction really seems to let the purity of the fruit come through. The same is true of a reduction of oak. All the elements come…

The Best New Releases from Australia, Part Two (Sep 2011)

(most of this vintage’s fruit comes from Tasmania, with the rest grown in the Adelaide Hills): Pale, green-tinged yellow. An exotic bouquet displays nectarine, orange zest, iodine and spices. Smoky mineral and dried fig notes add complexity and depth to fresh orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with serious…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, lurid violet. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral- and spice-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and floral oils, along with hints of cola and woodsmoke in the background. Sappy boysenberry, black raspberry, candied lavender and exotic spice flavors show a superb blend of depth and energy and turn sweeter through the back half. The berry…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Laroze is a very pretty wine. Although not especially complex, it offers lovely purity in its flavors, along with soft contours and silky tannins to match its midweight personality. I would prefer to drink it on the early side in order to catch the youthful juiciness of the red cherry and plum. Hints…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep red. Ripe, mellow aromas of currant, coffee, cocoa and smoked meat. Suave, round and seamless, with excellent concentration and subtle depth of flavor. Finishes with sneaky length and fine, ripe tannins. A stylish wine with more grip than recent vintages of this wine have displayed.

Australia, Part Two (Sep 2005)

Dark red. Blackberry, roasted plum and cassis aromas, with rich suggestions of chocolate, vanilla and coffee. Full and thick, with a viscous, mouth-coating texture verging on colloidal. Despite the wine’s breadth and weight, the blackberry and spicy cherry flavors remain juicy and bright. Clings to the palate on the finish, with echoing notes of ripe,…