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Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Full red-ruby. Very ripe nose offers roasted meat, smoke, tobacco, underbrush and mint. Superripe, silky and lush, with a slightly roasted fruit character. Not a hugely complex or deep vintage for Ornellaia, and likely to evolve relatively quickly, but the wine’s uncommonly lush, velvety texture is more than worth the price of…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, last tasted at the epic vertical, has much the same nose as it did three years ago. Bold and demonstrative, it delivers scents of blackberry, prune, fig, dark chocolate and perhaps a more East Asian tincture; I don’t know why, but there is something that reminds me of South Korean cuisine….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Cassis, minerals, cedar and a floral note on the nose, along with an herbal currant leaf component. Juicy and tight; hints at the power of the vintage but misses out on the sweetness and pliancy of the best examples. Offers a reasonably seamless texture but the firmly tannic finish seems a bit herbaceous…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated deep ruby. Ineffable aromas of black fruits, minerals, licorice and Havana tobacco. Rich, dense and thick; powerful but harmonious. Layered texture over a strong backbone. Very long on the palate, with thoroughly ripe, noble cabernet tannins. Superb.

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1989 Ausone is a good but not great wine, certainly one that ought to have been far better given the benevolent growing season. The nose is well defined with dark berry fruit, mocha, leather and undergrowth scents, fully matured but nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly better acidity and more freshness than…