Archives: Product Reviews

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The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Explosive if idiosyncratic aromas of tobacco, pepper, black olive, mocha and hot stones. Pungent and penetrating, with compelling flavors of raspberry, tobacco, black olive, dried rose, mocha, herbs and spices, plus a strong underlying minerality (I was variously reminded of Lafite, Haut-Brion and Ausone!). Suave and perfumed in the mouth; wonderfully ripe but…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2017 Series C is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 9% Malbec matured in 70% French oak for 22 months. It has an opulent, beautifully controlled yet sensual bouquet featuring layers of precise black cherry, blackberry, cedar and violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, juicy tannins….

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Series C has a superb bouquet of blackberry, boysenberry, cedar and pressed violets bursting from the glass, the oak nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, harmonious texture and a little more backbone on the finish than the Series M. Excellent.

Some Great Reward: South Africa (Aug 2018)

The 2015 Series C was aged for 22 months in 67% new French oak barrels. It offers a combination of red and black fruit on the nose, plus hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and vanilla pod and a floral component in the background. The pure, well-balanced palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine line…