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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Deep ruby. Explosive, powerful aromas of blackberry, wild cherry, red plum, violet, coffee, licorice candy and peppered bacon. Then silky, suave and creamy on the palate, with concentrated flavors of creme de mure, ripe blackcurrant, anise and exotic oak spice. Finishes long and sweet, with round tannins and a hint of five-spice powder.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this…

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet comes across as quite subtle at this stage. Today it appears to lack some mid-palate depth and concentration, but that may come as the wine fleshes out with further time in bottle. Even though it is quite beautiful from a textural standpoint, the Chevalier is the least expressive of the grand crus….

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled two weeks before my tasting): Bright pale yellow. Very pure, chalky aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers and iodine. Boasts outstanding tension and building intensity to its powerful lemon peel, pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Rare precision and inner-mouth perfume here. Saturates every square millimeter of the palate yet finishes with an impression of…