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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

When the 1983 Palmer flies high, it touches the stars. This is another bottle proving that at 40 years old it is better now than ever before. It is completely resplendent on the nose that blossoms in the glass with that heady concoction of red and black fruit, freshly-rolled tobacco, violet petals and an underlying…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2004 Echézeaux Grand Cru from Mugneret-Gibourg has pleasant red currant, maraschino cherry, iron filing and potent undergrowth/mulch aromas that gain a little intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins that frame the simple tart red fruit. There is a touch of bitter cherry here, as well as conspicuous undergrowth and…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full red. Distinctly darker fruit aromas than the Ruchottes; more smoke and earth and less flowers showing today. Densely packed but quite unevolved, even a bit imploded, with its peppery side currently overshadowing its shy fruit. This boasts very good lift, but finishes with slightly drying tannins. Extremely closed and in need of several…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Medium red with an amber rim. Highly complex bouquet of fresh and dried red fruits, cherry skin, pipe tobacco, smoky minerals, cigar box and potpourri. Sweet strawberry and cherry flavors stain the palate but are strikingly lithe. Cured tobacco and candied rose flavors emerge with aeration, and the fruit takes a darker turn toward cherry….

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

Just as it was from barrel, the 2019 Léoville Las-Cases is a wine of pure and total sophistication. There is not the size of some recent vintages, but instead that heft is replaced by cool refinement. The expression of fruit leans into the redder end of the spectrum as opposed to the typically darker Las-Cases…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Léoville Las-Cases is tasted from two bottles, but it is the second that really delivers the goods. It has a beautifully-defined bouquet with blackberry, black olive, subtle marine scents and touches of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, cohesive, quite high toned towards the finish with touches of mint…