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2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Carruades de Lafite graces the palate with dark red cherry, plum, spice and tobacco notes. A supple, accessible Pauillac, the 2013 is best enjoyed in its youth, before the fruit begins to fade. The Carruades is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Tasted twice.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2007)

(the new team, led by winemaker Andy Erickson, eliminated some cabernet franc and merlot from the blend before bottling this wine, which was vinified by ex-winemaker Heidi Barrett) Good deep ruby-red. Deeper, sweeter aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, mocha, smoke and minerals. Rich and suave in the mouth; fuller and considerably smoother than the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium-deep red. Plum, currant, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Lush and sweet, with moderate density and harmonious acidity. Perhaps a bit livelier in the mouth than on the nose. Not nearly as ripe on the back end as the ’98, but has sneaky finishing flavor.

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Pungent aromas of crushed stone and flowers, plus a suggestion of apricot. Penetrating, minerally and uncompromisingly dry; an elegantly styled, steely wine that could use a bit more flesh. Finishes very firm and youthful. From vines at the top of the Perrieres slope, which is not the best position in this cru, says Montille. The…

2005 and 2004 Chablis (Nov 2006)

Pale, green-tinged color. Clean, tight nose suggests citrus and mint. Then sweet, open and expressive in the mouth, with a penetrating quality to the citrus flavors. Not at all a honeyed style of Fourchaume, and very fresh for the year, even if it’s less minerally than the Montee de Tonnerre. Finishes with impressive volume and…

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

(bottled in April of this year) Slightly reduced nose hints at acacia flower. Silky and pure on the palate, with captivating flavors of white peach, grapefruit, citrus oil and flowers. Offers a wonderful blend of creamy texture and lively, integrated acidity. Finishes subtle and long. A beauty.