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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

A wine of restraint and sensuality, the 2014 Harlan Estate is wonderfully transparent in feel. Time in the glass brings out a compelling interplay of beautifully layered fruit and lifted aromatics. The 2014 is one of the most understated yet energetic young vintages of Harlan Estate I can remember tasting. Readers who have not tasted…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

La Spinetta’s 2003 Barolo Campè is a pretty wine to drink now and over the next 5-10 years, but probably on the shorter end of that window. Worn in leather, mocha, spices, smoke, plums and earthiness meld together nicely in the glass. The 80% new oak is totally integrated, while the tannins are also soft,…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(15% alcohol) Impressive red-ruby color. Aromas of black raspberry, menthol, mint and caramel, with a whiff of roasted fruits in the deep background. Lush, sweet, broad and a bit closed, with less cut and life than the ’04. Finishes with some alcoholic warmth and huge tannins that coat the incisors.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2012)

(from vines at an altitude of 2,100 feet): Good dark red. Musky aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice and spicy oak. Juicy, sweet and chocolatey but not over the top. Boasts very good density and texture, with lively, primary flavors of blackberry and violet. This rich, well-balanced wine opens up nicely in the mouth, showing…