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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Rieussec is similar to the previous bottle a couple of years ago. It has since opened with saffron-tinged honeyed fruit, dried honey and almond shavings. This example is more vanillary and oaky than previous ones, and that actually distracts from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied; again, the new oak feels more…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Tour Maillet (Lagardere) is a potent wine. A blast of dark cherry/plum fruit, chocolate, new leather, licorice and espresso are front and center. This is an especially concentrated style, with copious new oak. All the elements are nicely balanced, but its hard not to think all the oak is not really needed. There's…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Bailly soars out of the glass, showing magnificent poise that only grows with time. Sweet, perfumed aromatics, silky tannins and mid-weight structure add to its considerable allure. Ripe red berry fruit, spice, blood orange, licorice, cedar, tobacco and menthol are all woven together in an effortless, classy Haut-Bailly that delivers the goods. I…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

After one bottle broke in transit, Véronique Sanders dispatched a replacement toute de suite. The 2018 Haut-Bailly retains its almost sumptuous bouquet of black cherries, boysenberry and huge bunches of freshly picked violets. The medium-bodied palate presents layers of black fruit laced with white pepper and iodine. This Haut-Bailly is very supple, the tannins very…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Smith Haut Lafitte was very impressive in barrel, and now in bottle, it delivers. Wonderful precision on the nose, subtle at first but unfurling with each swirl of the glass, revealing scents of blackberry and crushed stone, iris petals like before, and maybe a touch more violet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine…