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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Clerc-Milon has a modest bouquet with blackberry and sous-bois aromas, perhaps missing the intensity of some of its peers in this flight. Pencil box scents emerge with aeration to add a little complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, classic Pauillac really with cedar and mint towards the brisk and defined finish….

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 67% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, and 4% petit verdot; represents 41% of the total estate production, which is 10% less than usual) Bright ruby. Knockout nose melds violet, red cherry, milk chocolate and menthol. Wonderfully concentrated and primary, with a soft texture and captivating inner-mouth perfume to the red cherry and mineral…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light violet aromas, quite intense and graining power in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannin. The acidity is very well judged, a completely harmonious Pavillon Rouge with just the right amount of spice…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Opus One is absolutely exquisite. Bright red berry fruit, crushed flowers, mint and spice are all finely cut. The 2018 impresses with its energy and focus. It’s a gorgeous wine, and is also showing especially well today, with all of the potential I first saw in barrel very much on display. Bright acids…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Château d’Issan has an open-knit, fresh bouquet with light, tobacco-tinged black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, understated and elegant in style with a Saint-Julien-like finish. Six years ago, the bottle suggested a better wine, indicating that it peaked in the interim. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Extra-Brut Grand Vintage is a terrific choice for drinking now, as it is so expressive. Baked apple tart, spice, lemon confit, marzipan and a hint of toastiness are front and center. Open-knit and engaging, the 2015 is a Champagne of pure and total pleasure.