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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, tobacco leaf, licorice and tangy bitter chocolate on the nose. Intensely flavored, bright and penetrating; as dense as the ’99 but firmer, more obviously structured, and in need of a good decade of bottle aging. Firm tannins suffuse the palate. Montrose has been making consistently excellent wine in recent years.

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Lafleur is now asserting itself as the best of the 1988/19889/1990 triumvirate, and that means it is very good. The bouquet is utterly entrancing from first acquaintance, with effervescent and multi-faceted brambly red fruit, black truffle, earthenware and light roasted chestnut scents—quintessential Pomerol. The palate has plenty of concentration, though the passing years…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep red-ruby color. Liqueur-like aromas of roasted redcurrant, plum, mint and burnished wood. Thick, powerful and unrefined; a superripe, huge wine with elevated alcohol. Seemed to take on more shape and grip as it opened in the glass. Finishes fresh but hugely tannic, with somewhat aggressive tannins, a hint of alcoholic warmth and superb persistence….

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good medium red. Very ripe nose melds fresh red fruits, exotic Indian spices (coriander?), marzipan and deep nutty oak. Sweet, layered and deep, with highly concentrated flavors and powerful underlying structure. A wine of uncanny sweetness and breadth: this really coats the entire mouth. Finishes with substantial but suave and ripe tannins and outstanding persistence….

Piedmont Icons Dinner

The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is just as magical as it has always been. Perfumed, light on its feet and supremely elegant, the 2004 dazzles from start to finish. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin suggest it will drink well for many years to come. All of the pure sensuality of Asili is on…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents—blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet—all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more…