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Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2006 Mouton Rothschild is dark, powerful and intense, with firm tannins that need time to soften. This is an especially dark, somber Mouton. Dark black fruit, smoke, menthol gravel and cured meats are some of the signatures. Slight vegetal notes underpin the fruit. I am not sure the 2006 has enough freshness to be…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of cassis, blueberry, cedar and graphite. Wonderfully pure and silky in the mouth, with great subtle, slow-building intensity and superb energy and thrust. A real essence of cabernet sauvignon and Mouton terroir This one really rattled my brain-in the gentlest way. As silky as it is, it possesses bottomless depths. Finishes…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, graphite and cedar chips, lifted by peppery and floral high notes. Densely packed and superconcentrated but light on its feet, with compelling flavors of spicy berries and minerals. The very long, slow-building finish stains the palate with flavor. Very backward but not austere; and unlike some recent…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Saturated ruby-red color. Knockout nose combines perfumed red berries, licorice, tar and chalky minerality, along with some exotic roasted notes. Sweet, fat and thick, with slightly roasted flavors of black raspberry and game. A large-scaled, impressively lush wine that comes off as distinctly more vibrant than the 2001 Pavie-Decesse. From the outset this wine has…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Pavie has a vibrant bouquet of lifted blackberry, raspberry and rose petal scents, joined by touches of cedar and mint from the Cabernets. The palate is well balanced with fine tension, structured but not overbearing. This is less dense than the 2000, with better-integrated wood and a lovely rondeur toward the finish. It…