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The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…

Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Jun 2015)

We started with Raveneau’s 2002 Chablis Valmur, a wine I absolutely adore. Voluptuous, but still young, the 2002 is in a gorgeous place right now where time in bottle has softened some the contours and added layers of aromatic nuance. The 2002 retains considerable freshness and should continue to offer exceptional drinking for another decade-plus….

2003 and 2002 Chablis (Jul 2004)

Classic, steely aromas of wet stone, gunflint and humid earth; a very pure expression of this grand cru site. Big and broad on the palate, with mouthstaining concentration, but much more backward than the Blanchots, and not yet showing that wine’s sweetness or opulence of texture. Today, the strong acids have the upper hand. But…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

2004 and 2003 Chablis (Jul 2005)

Pale yellow. Pure aromas of lemon, spices and stone. Supple, round and silky, with very ripe but bright flavors of apple, pear and citrus fruits. Impressively fat, rich and seamless premier cru with excellent length. This was bottled the day before I tasted it but was not yet showing any evidence of shock.

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(tasted from barrel): Good pale yellow with green highlights. Pure but restrained nose hints at underripe pineapple, lime and menthol. Denser and fatter than the Meursault Perrieres, with a more accessible sweetness making it easier to taste today. The sound lemony acidity here is masked by the power of the wine. Finishes very ripe, rich,…