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Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal is another absolutely stellar wine this flight of recent releases. Rich, vinous and beautifully textured, the 2012 has been nothing short of magnificent on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. In the glass, the 2012 is radiant and luscious, yet it possesses remarkable transparency and striking aromatic depth. Light…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafleur is quite a bit less showy than most Pomerols in this vintage. I suspect the high percentage of Cabernet Franc may have something to do with it. Aromatically intense, but also austere, the 2005 feels like it needs more time. The bouquet is captivating, but huge tannins make Lafleur much less accessible…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2005 Lafleur does not quite match up to previous examples and certainly juxtaposed against the 2000 Lafleur, I have a preference for the millennial. Still, I am quibbling. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, wild strawberry, black truffle and minerals that only reluctantly unfolds over the course of two or three…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Roasted berries, musky espresso, tobacco leaf and a whiff of prune on the nose. Lush and supple, with more obvious sweetness than the 2005 but less shape and thrust. In a chunky style. My suspicion is that the 2005 will ultimately turn out to be a more refined and satisfying wine.

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence.