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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste continues to dazzle. This is in such a good place at the moment. From a regular bottle this time, it has a gorgeous blackberry, cedar and pencil box-scented bouquet that revs up with aeration. Pure & classic. The palate is wonderfully balanced; the tannins have finally polymerized to lend this 1982 the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste put in a magnificent performance where it looks the First Growths in the eye and challenges their supposed superiority. This is unquestionably the best of a two-dozen-plus bottle enjoyed over the years. It is brilliantly focused and intense on the nose with black fruit, cedar and graphite – quintessentially Pauillac, undimmed by…

Vinous Table: Noble Rot Soho, London, UK (Sep 2020)

To baptize the new restaurant, one of our generous guests proffered a magnum of 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste. It is a few years since I last tasted this Pauillac but it remains a magnificent wine. Limpid and youthful, it displayed very little ageing compared to other 1982s, partly due to the larger format. The bouquet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, currant, mint and cedar. Dry, penetrating and stylish, with very primary flavors and noteworthy vinosity. Classic claret intensity and grip without any excess weight. The flavors build impressively on the firmly tannic, youthfully tough finish. This bottle was still a few years away from full maturity and should…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1983 Yquem is one of the standouts from the decade. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay brought a bottle to our London tasting but unfortunately it was obviously corked. Fortunately, a friend opened another that chimed with my previous encounters. This underwent a long harvest thanks to the clement weather from 29 September until 19 November. It…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

Intense dark ruby. Dark berry fruit and exotic spice scents fill the high-toned, penetrating nose. Offers a deep core of beautifully delineated blackberry and blackcurrant flavors layered with bell pepper, dark chocolate and minerals. Smooth tannins frame the very long finish, leaving one with the impression of persistence and balance.