Archives: Product Reviews

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New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)

Dark ruby. Suave, complex aromas of blackcurrant, kirsch, licorice, mocha, toasty oak spices, cured meat and succulent herbs, with a hint of graphite. Lush and round, with deep, concentrated dark berry flavors accented by smoky, spicy oak, licorice candy and a suggestion of vanilla. This is surprisingly open and seamless, the gentle tannins absorbed by…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Ornellaia is a dream wine with magnificent balance. All the elements are in the right place. In most vintages, Ornellaia needs time to fully come together, but the 2015 is just impeccable, even in the early going. The warm vintage notwithstanding, winemaker Axel Heinz crafted and Ornellaia is more about finesse and power….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which is completely de-stemmed, offers pretty blueberry and raspberry fruit on the refined nose – pretty and playful. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. There is a sharpness here, and a citric finish. Fine.

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Bright, copper-hued orange. Intensely perfumed strawberry, cherry, blood orange and floral scents are complemented by emerging spiciness and a hint of nuttiness. Energetic red berry, citrus fruit and candied rose flavors show impressive depth as well as vivacity. Lingers with outstanding tenacity on the penetrating finish, which strongly echoes the floral, spice and red fruit…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Full, deep red. Compelling soil-inflected aromas of berries, cocoa powder, minerals and flowers. Sweet but precise and penetrating, with lovely harmonious acidity. Rigorous but not austere; this makes the Clos Vougeot seem almost jammy by comparison. Finishes very long and vibrant, with fine tannins and a degree of thrust that’s rare for the vintage. A…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

I do not taste enough mature bottles from Anne Gros. This 2000 Richebourg Grand Cru is delightful, sporting impressive purity on the nose, summer fruit and ember aromas, lightly spiced with perhaps just a hint of VA. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely poised, light in terms of grip for a Richebourg but with good…