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2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)

Bright ruby. Lively, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, anise, earth and spices, augmented by hints of lavender and resin. Energetic, focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show good definition and pick up minerality with air. Taut on the back end, finishing with solid grip and very good, tangy persistence. I like this wine’s vivacity…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Saturated ruby-purple. Delicate aromas of blueberry and cedar are complicated by hints of graphite and tobacco. Delicate on the palate as well, with pretty black currant and cedar flavors. This wonderfully balanced midweight offers sneaky concentration and great precision to its classic, cabernet-dominated flavors, not to mention a long,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Ripe, juicy and fresh, with lovely violet lift to the dark berry flavors. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering black fruit flavors. Not the last word in complexity but unusually rich and floral in 2005. Wait until 2012.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Saturated ruby. Perfumed, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, tar and licorice. Lush and pliant on entry, then dry and classic in the middle palate. Nicely balanced, persistent wine but the tannins turned a bit dry as the wine opened in the glass. Is there enough balancing sweetness here? Certainly this is succulent and fresh.