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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cheval Blanc has been a lauded wine ever since release. I have often, quite controversially felt that it never quite matched its startling performances in its first ten years, though it remains and excellent wine. Now at 20-years old it offers opulent, high-toned scents of maraschino cherry, iodine, crème de cassis, dried blood…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, bright medium ruby. Nose shows an almost liqueur-like ripeness, along with notes of bitter chocolate and menthol; a great expression of ripe but youthfully unevolved cabernet franc. Extremely dense and pure but still quite tight and showing a minty austerity. Wonderful acids give the wine superb clarity of flavor. This will require another decade…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 56% merlot and 44% cabernet franc; 13% alcohol; 32 h/h): Bright ruby. Ripe, intensely pure black cherry, blackcurrant, floral and milk chocolate aromas. Enters silky and suave, with rich red cherry and blackcurrant flavors that give the middle palate a fruit cocktail quality. Almost more Pomerol than Saint-Emilion here, with a rich,…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port is initially tight and conservative on the nose: strawberry, baked cherry, tobacco and wild hedgerow notes emerging but remaining tight-lipped. This needs a good decant! The palate is endowed with depth and concentration, very well balanced with an attractive crispness. Perhaps you could argue that it is a linear and…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1975 Taylor’s Vintage Port is mature in colour, lighter on the nose than either the 1970 or 1977 with wild strawberry, cherry, pencil lead and sawdust. No, it is not complex, but it is clean and fresh. The medium-bodied is more driven by fruit than other vintages and lacks a little structure, yet there…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château Margaux, last tasted five years previously, is slightly deeper in color compared with the 2001 Pavillon. Featuring black plum, raspberry and touches of orange peel, rose petal and light bay leaf aromas, the bouquet is not intense, but it is well defined and focused. The palate is fresh on the entry with…