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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright, deep red. Discreet nose hints at cassis, violet, licorice and mint. Wonderfully rich and deep but tighter today and less showy than the Suchots, even a bit youthfully ungiving in spite of its seamless texture. The dark fruit flavors are perked up by licorice, mint and fresh herbs. Most impressive today on the…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated dark red. Deep, nuanced nose combines dark fruits, minerals and underbrush. Sweet and highly concentrated but tight and backward, even a bit sullen today; fruit and stone flavors are quite primary for the vintage. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good grip. May ultimately merit an even higher rating.

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Haut-Brion can give the ’89 a run for its money on the right day. This is intense on the nose, with blackberry, tobacco, gravel and just a light touch of camphor. It has stunning delineation and is perhaps the most mercurial ’90 First Growth at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and powerful,…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lafite-Rothschild put in a great performance at this dinner. In fact, this bottle was better than one opened at the château in 2018. Stunning delineation, almost crystalline, with youthful, mineral-laden black fruit laced with truffle and allspice. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with finely woven tannins, perfect acidity and a real peacock’s…