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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Pontet Canet has a high-toned nose, a little more VA than its peers. Macerated cherries, iodine and pressed violets come through with aeration. It exhibits some exotic traits, though I would not describe them as unattractive; they are just perhaps missing Pauillac DNA. The palate is medium-bodied with a juicy entry, slightly lower…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has developed into an elegant, polished Pauillac. Silky, aromatic and racy, the 2021 is seriously impressive. Graphite, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice meld into a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. In some recent years, the Réserve has been a big wine, maybe too big. In 2021, it’s a wine…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is still tight-lipped on the nose despite rigorous coaxing, notes of graphite percolating through the black fruit. I feel that in another vintage it would give me more. The palate is medium-bodied and more expressive than the aromatics at the moment, quite concentrated in terms of its black fruit,…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has a pretty bouquet, not intense but well-defined, featuring blackberry, cedar and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and quite saline in the mouth, with grippy tannins, good body and just a slight austerity on the finish. Not bad at all, though there is a considerable gap between…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is a seriously great wine in its peer group. Or any peer group. Rich and layered, with no hard edges and compelling balance, the 2021 opens beautifully in the glass. Savory accents run through a core of black cherry and plum fruit, with hints of gravel, spice and leather…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…