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Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc) Bright ruby-red. Ripe aromas of black plum, licorice, chocolate and menthol; slightly reduced. Sweet, lush, broad and deep, with black cherry, mocha and cocoa powder flavors complicated by a balsamic note. Finishes with dusty, building tannins.

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The estate’s 1996 Brut Femme de Champagne is really quite pretty in the way it balances some of the more mature notes from extended lees aging with the freshness of the vintage. To be sure, this isn’t a blockbuster 1996, but the Femme de Champagne offers plenty of class and elegance in an approachable, delicate…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins…

Vinous Table: Daniel, New York (Jun 2015)

We started with Raveneau’s 2002 Chablis Valmur, a wine I absolutely adore. Voluptuous, but still young, the 2002 is in a gorgeous place right now where time in bottle has softened some the contours and added layers of aromatic nuance. The 2002 retains considerable freshness and should continue to offer exceptional drinking for another decade-plus….

2003 and 2002 Chablis (Jul 2004)

Classic, steely aromas of wet stone, gunflint and humid earth; a very pure expression of this grand cru site. Big and broad on the palate, with mouthstaining concentration, but much more backward than the Blanchots, and not yet showing that wine’s sweetness or opulence of texture. Today, the strong acids have the upper hand. But…