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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep violet. An expressive bouquet displays aromas of fresh red and dark berries, pipe tobacco and peppery spices, with vanilla and floral nuances emerging quickly. Smoke- and spice-tinged black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors convey appealing sweetness, and a spicy flourish adds lift and back-end cut. Soft, even tannins shape the finish, which shows fine clarity…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2017 Anwilka was aged for 19 months in 50% new oak (400-liter barrels) and the rest in second-fill. It has a pure, seductive bouquet of boysenberry and cassis fruit, the vanilla-y oak seamlessly integrated and not imposing itself like older vintages of Anwilka. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, and slightly granular in…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Talbot is soft, silky and wonderfully nuanced on the palate. Much more refined from bottle than it was from barrel, the 2014 has moved toward greater finesse over the last two years. This is a lovely effort. Lifted rose petal and lavender notes add closing nuance. The blend is 62 % Cabernet Sauvignon,…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Talbot has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry and light violet petal aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy and chunky tannin, good weight in the mouth if just missing the finesse of its peers towards the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Blackcurrant, licorice, underbrush and smoky oak on the inviting nose, with hints of tobacco and minerals. Dense and chewy in the mouth, with brooding, ripe flavors of blackberry, dark plum and smoky, chocolatey oak given lift by firm acidity. Finishes with subtle length but its assertive tannins will require at least several years…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Sociando Mallet has a tightly wound bouquet. Mainly red fruit, raspberry and wild strawberry are mixed with cedar and mint, becomes fresh and lively after three or four minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly soft entry, missing some depth (especially for a 2009). A stilted finish that just lacks the flow…