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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru is one of the lowest-producing vineyards, yielding just 20hl/ha due to the age of the vines and shallow soils. The very pure bouquet features ebullient red cherry and raspberry fruit and fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, and quite succulent, with a sorbet-like richness…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru was picked on September 16, like the Chapelle-Chambertin, and likewise I sense some over-maturity on the nose that detracts from the terroir expression. The palate is ripe and candied on the entry, with good weight and fleshiness and a touch of soy toward the dense finish, which is highly…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion comes across as delicate and soft. It is a wine that is very strongly marked by the year—there is no doubt about that. Floral and spice notes open first, as the 2021 shows off its restrained personality. Dark fruit, leather, cedar and tobacco develop in the glass, but this very…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion has a very cohesive bouquet, well-defined with minerally red and black fruit, hints of white flowers and a distant tang of black olive. The almost “estuarine” element becomes more prominent with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite fresh though not a complex or deep La Mission. It…