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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pontet-Canet is noticeably deep in colour compared to its peers. This is unusually ripe and sweet on the nose, more red than black fruit, maybe a little jammy and confit-like. I would never guess this was a 2010 Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, plenty of graphite tinged red…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot) Bright ruby. Knockout nose of cassis, black pepper, minerals and cedar just screams Pauillac. Enters the mouth sweet, creamy and pure, displaying very rich, dense flavors of black fruit, minerals and dried herbs, with lively, integrated acidity keeping the wine from coming across…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Superripe, soil-driven aromas of currant, plum, cherry pie, mocha and minerals; almost liqueur-like in its ripeness, in a 1947 way. Then huge, sweet and plush, with great volume and depth to its flavors of cassis, flowers, minerals, game and olive. Finishes with big, ripe, horizontal tannins and great mounting length. This remarkably thick…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2004 Cristal is superb today. Bright and focused, the 2004 shows all of the tension and energy that has always been one of its signatures. The first hints of aromatic maturity are starting to develop, but the 2004 remains quite young and full of energy. I have always admired the 2004 (along with the…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay) Light, bright gold. Spicy citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by chalk, white flowers and a touch of smokiness. Taut, linear lemon and orange rind flavors give way to deeper pear in the mid-palate and pick up notes of honeysuckle and toasted grain with air. Still very young…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Vivid purple. Mineral-accented black/blue fruit, olive and pungent flowers on the deeply perfumed nose. Impressively concentrated, expansive flavors of blueberry and candied violet are complicated by licorice and dark chocolate qualities that build on the back half. Sweet and broad on the finish, which shows solid thrust and round, harmonious tannins.