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’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Vivid purple. Mineral-accented black/blue fruit, olive and pungent flowers on the deeply perfumed nose. Impressively concentrated, expansive flavors of blueberry and candied violet are complicated by licorice and dark chocolate qualities that build on the back half. Sweet and broad on the finish, which shows solid thrust and round, harmonious tannins.

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2009 Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is remarkably polished and balanced throughout, with plenty of vintage 2009 radiance. Apricot pit, smoke, peach and spice overtones take shape in a striking Champagne. Although quite open and expressive today, the 2009 is also holding back a considerable amount of pure, unbridled power as well as potential. Ripe…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2009 Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is remarkably polished and balanced throughout, with plenty of vintage 2009 radiance. Apricot pit, smoke, peach and spice overtones take shape in a striking Champagne. Although quite open and expressive today, the 2009 is also holding back a considerable amount of pure, unbridled power as well as potential. Ripe…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Moderately ripe but aromatic nose of dark cherry and flowers. Supple on entry, then fairly round in the middle and not a bit overextracted. There’s an attractive chewiness to the dark cherry flavor, and the wine’s texture supports its firm tannins. A bit herbal but persistent on the end.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1984 Lafite-Rothschild comes from an off vintage that occasionally springs a surprise… but not this time. It feels fatigued and musty on the nose, presenting pungent tomato vine aromas and a touch of licorice. The palate is better, with dry tannins and vestiges of black fruit and pencil lead, yet it fades dramatically on…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Bright ruby to the rim. Slightly wild scents of mountain blackberry and blueberry, licorice, minerals, crushed rock, violet and wildflowers. Fine-grained, dense and utterly seamless but powerful on entry, with a hint of almost port-like ripeness but also outstanding sappy energy to the juicy black fruit, floral, mineral and licorice flavors. As much savory as…