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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Strong mousse. Deep salmon skin color. Subtle yet assertive aromas of strawberry and earth. Pungent, dry and bracing, with leesy flavors of strawberry and raspberry. Quite light on its feet. Finishes dry and firm but seems to tail off a bit on the end.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Shimmering ruby. Bright and focused on the nose, displaying juicy red and blue fruit, floral, smoked meat and cracked pepper qualities. Sappy and energetic on the palate, offering appealingly sweet cherry, black raspberry, floral pastille and cola flavors and a hint of allspice. In a vibrant, fruit-driven style, showing good depth and resonating spiciness on…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Ripe, expressive nose combines cassis, roasted plum and coconut. Supple, very concentrated and large-scaled; actually rather backward today even if the terrific ripeness is clear to see. Quintessential firm Pauillac backbone is covered by flesh. Will rely more on its tongue-dusting tannins than its acidity to age in bottle. This wine firmed up…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Grand Puy Lacoste is showing some bricking on the rim now. Mellow on the nose with sous-bois, morels, warm gravel and just a touch of mint. This is fully mature. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little hollow on the mid-palate with dry tannins, and slightly metallic, perhaps? A tertiary GPL…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red-ruby. Black fruits, licorice and shoe polish, with a light roasted note. Then dry, inky and penetrating, with medicinal black fruits and nutty oak showing. Finishes with dusty, even tannins and an edge of acidity. Classic, rather austere Pauillac, with moderate texture and ripeness.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of lemon, apple, spices, crushed stone and white flowers. Utterly seamless, silky wine with compelling elegance to its flavors of white peach and white flowers. This Chevalier boasts a creaminess that will give it early appeal, but its penetrating chalky finish also gives it grip and lift for a graceful evolution…